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Amlapura
Crossing a wide, solidified lava flow which
year by year is slowly being brought back
to cultivation, you enter Amlapura, the
main town of Karangasem regency. The former
kingdom was founded during the weakening
of the Gelgel dynasty late in the 17th century,
and became in the late 18th and early 19th
centuries the most powerful state in Bali.
Puri Agung Karangasem long served as the
residence of these kings .. |
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Bangli
Further inland the weather is cooler. Plots
abound with sweet potato, peanut, corn and
spices. A high kulkul drum tower
marks the entrance to Bangli, capital of
a kingdom descended from the early Gelgel
dynasty. The largest and most sacred temple
of the district is Pura Kehen, the terraced
mountain sanctuary and state temple of Bangli.
An ancient document tells of the slaughter
of a black bull .. |
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Batu Bulan
Driving northeast of Denpasar, one is soon
among the fields and streams of Badung and
Gianyar. Badung's district border is marked
by a spinning factory named Patal Tohpati.
Tohpati means "where people risk their
lives" and alludes to a former battle
between two rival kingdoms. Entering
Batubulan, stone statues of divinities and
demons, humans and animals line the roadside.
They are sold to tourists and to the Balinese
as .. |
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Mas
According to the Balinese chronicles, Danghyang
Nirartha (Padanda Sakti Bahu Rauh) came
to Bali from Java at the end of the 1 5th
century and made his home in this village.
This priest, from whom almost all of Bali's
Brahmanas claim descent, gave Balinese Hinduism
the >> |
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Batur
In 1927,the people of Batur began rebuilding
Pura Ulun Danu, the temple which once lay
at the foot of the volcano. It was an ambitious
project. The majority of the 285 planned
shrines are yet to be completed. At present,
the temple is finely and simply designed.
Two august gateways, severe in contrast
to the elaborate split gates of South Bali,
open onto spacious courtyards laid with
black gravel... |
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Bedugul
In jungle terrain lies the serene lake of
Bratan, veiled with mist. It fills the ancient
crater of Mt. Bratan. Because the lake is
an essential water source for surrounding
farmlands, the people of Bedugul honor Dewl'tanu,
goddess of the waters .. |
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Bedulu
The village at the crossroads beyond Pejeng
was once the center of early Balinese dynasties.
In the 14th century, the armies of the Majapahit
dynasty in Java threatened many parts of
the archipelago. One ruler refused to submit:
Dalem Bedaulu or Raja Tapolung ... |
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Besakih
A climb north, through the astonishing landscapes
of Bukit Jambul, ascends over 900 meters
up the slopes of Gunung Agung to Pura Besakih,
the holiest of all temples in Bali. It originated
most probably as a prehistoric terraced
.. |
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Kubu
Tambahan
Here, Pura Maduwe Karang, "Temple of
the Owner of the Land", honors Mother
Earth and the sun which give prosperity
to the crops of dry agriculture. Assubak
temples venerate the creative urge in
nature that insures harvests on irrigated
rice fields, this temple holds ceremonies
to guarantee a "blessing" for
plants grown on un-irrigated land: fruits,
coconut, maize and coffee >> |
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Kuta
Sunsets make memories at Kuta beach, one
of the island's loveliest seacoasts. Skylight
descends in warm waves of color, leaving
shy stars behind. Village fishermen often
set off at dusk, the sails of their prahus
shrinking to frail silhouettes that
drift across a wide, red sun. They vanish
into the night, lulled by the rhythm of
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Marga
On 20 November 1946, Lt. Col. 1 Gusti Ngurah
Rai, a commander of nationalist troops in
Bali, and his company of guerrilla fighters
were killed in the Battle of Marga. Surrounded
by a numerically superior Dutch force, and
under bombardment from the air, the small
band, only 94 men in all, refused to surrender;
they attacked >> |
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Blahbatuh
Many landmarks and buildings are attributed
to him, including the original gate of this
temple. Enshrined in a small pavilion is
a massive stone head over a meter high,
said to be a portrait of Kebo lwa. The head
cannot be dated precisely and does not resemble
usual Hindu - Javanese iconography; it is
probably solely Balinese in creation >>
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Blayu
From Mengwi you may cross the range to the
coast of North Bali. A left turn off the
main road leads to Blayu where the women
are weavers. The clicking of bamboo looms
resound, as locally dyed threads are interwoven
in webs of gold embroidery to fashion ceremonial
cloths worn during festivals. A sarong
two meters long takes three weeks to
a month to weave, depending upon the intricacy
of the design >> |
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Celuk
A silver-spun dragon twice encircles the
wrist to form a bracelet sold in the village
of Celuk, a center of gold and silver work.
Original designs in delicate filigree make
Balinese jeweiry one of the most unusual
styles in Asia. Although individual pieces
are elaborate, they have simple origins
in their making. Artisans use a tree stump
with a protruding iron spike as a pounding
base, a bamboo stem to catch the filings,
and a manually operated gas pump for heat.
As with most Balinese crafts, gold and silver
work is largely an hereditary trade >> |
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Denpasar
With a population over 100,000, this Bali's
capital city is the largest city in the
island. It is also clock. Since the
Denpasar's two main shopping streets at
el960sand the tourist boom, Denpasar has
come together at the Guru statue-
Hindu concepts. It replaced an old street
Jalan Gajah Mada grown quickly into
a bustling little city in is block-full
with >> |
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Gianyar
Before Gianyar, traveling from Kutri, there
is a road junction. For a shorter round
trip (skipping the Gianyar - Kintamani circuit)
which allows more time for shopping in Ubud
and Mas, take the road left to Bedulu and
follow the tour from there (pages 151-157).
Or, if there is time, take the road right
to Gianyar and Kintamani >> |
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Goa Gajah
A short distance from Bedulu stands the
mysterious Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave. A
fantastically carved entrance depicts entangling
leaves, rocks, animals, ocean waves and
demonic human shapes running from the gaping
mouth which forms the entrance to the cave.
The monstrous Kala head that looms above
the entrance seems to part the rock with
her hands >> |
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Gunung
Kawi
From the lookout above a long stairway,
ghostly habitations appear on the far side
of the valley. The young River Pakrisan
bubbles down over boulders, as it winds
through the rice terraces. This is the striking
>> |
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Klungkung
As the seat of the Dewa Agung, nominally
the highest of the old Balinese rajas,
Klungkung holds a special place in the island's
history and culture. As artistic centers,
the palaces of Klungkung's rajas and
noblemen patronized and developed the styles
of music, drama and the fine arts that flourish
today. The capital was shifted to Klungkung
from nearby Gelgel in 1710, and a new
palace built .>> |
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Kintamani
In script from the 10th century indicate
that this high mountain district which takes
its name from the ancient, windblown town
at 1,500 meters-was the earliest known kingdom
in Bali. Its small houses are constructed
of wood and bamboo tiles to give warmth
in the cold evenings of the highlands. Plentiful
vegetables and fruits prosper in the damp
climate. Like many of the old villages in
Bali, the center of community affairs is
the bale agung, >> |
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